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What to Wear to a Black Tie Optional Event (Hourglass Shape Guide)

September 29, 2025

You got the invitation. It says "black tie optional." And now you're staring at your closet wondering if that cocktail dress is too casual or if floor-length is overkill.

Black tie optional doesn't mean "anything goes"—it means the host wants elegance but won't side-eye you if you skip the full gown. You can wear a formal floor-length dress, a chic midi, or even a sophisticated jumpsuit. Some invites add "festive" or "creative black tie," which is basically permission to bring the drama. Sparkle. Color. A little edge.

The problem? When you have an hourglass shape, not every silhouette is built to work with a defined waist and balanced proportions. Boxy cuts flatten you. Empire waists hide your shape entirely. Stiff fabrics fight your curves instead of working with them. I've spent too many events tugging at dresses that looked amazing on the hanger and baffling on my body.

LookSky's virtual try-on shows you how each silhouette drapes on your proportions before you commit. No guessing. No returns. Just dresses that actually work.

[Link: Try Black Tie Dresses Virtually →]

Quick Answer: What Is Black Tie Optional?

Q: What does black tie optional mean for women?
Black tie optional means you can wear a formal floor-length gown or opt for a sophisticated cocktail dress, midi, or dressy jumpsuit. The key is polished elegance—think luxe fabrics, tailored fits, and elevated styling.

Q: Can I wear color or prints to a black tie optional wedding?
Yes—unless the invite specifies otherwise, jewel tones, metallics, and elegant prints are fair game. Save white, cream, and anything bridal-adjacent for another day.

Q: What's the difference between black tie optional and cocktail attire?
Black tie optional skews more formal. Cocktail attire welcomes knee-length dresses to tea-length dresses and playful silhouettes; black tie optional expects floor-length or elevated midi styles with refined details.

Not sure what works on your shape? Take the Style Quiz and get instant recs built for your proportions.

The 3 Best Silhouettes for Hourglass Shapes at Black Tie Optional Events

When you have an hourglass figure—defined waist, balanced bust and hips—you need silhouettes that celebrate your shape without clinging or overwhelming it. Skip boxy cuts and empire waists. These three do the work.

Best Black Tie Optional Dress for Hourglass: Fitted Bodice or Corset.

Fitted bodice dresses for hourglass shapes in yellow, sage, and rust satin

The corset/fitted bodice silhouette was designed for hourglass bodies. It cinches at your natural waist, skims your hips, and creates a vertical line that elongates your frame.

Skip: Spaghetti-strap wrap dresses that gap at the bust or require constant adjusting. Wrap styles in stiff taffeta that fight your curves instead of following them.

Revolve Bita Gown (Butter Yellow)

• Why it works: The strapless sweetheart neckline emphasizes your décolletage while the column silhouette skims your hips without clinging. Butter yellow is unexpected for black tie optional and photographs beautifully against typical jewel tones.

Meshki Larissa Satin Maxi Dress With Ruched Petals - Sage

• Why it works: The structured bustier bodice cinches at your natural waist with boned construction that stays secure without adjusting. The ruched asymmetric draping adds dimension at the hip without bulk.

Revolve Bustier Dress (Rust)

• Why it works: The structured bustier bodice with visible seaming creates definition at your natural waist while the midi-length skirt skims your hips without clinging. The rust tone feels warm and unexpected for formal events, and the high slit adds movement without feeling too revealing.

Why it works: The fitted sweetheart bodice creates classic hourglass definition while the A-line skirt balances your hips without adding volume. The metallic gold feels festive and formal, and the one-shoulder strap adds support while keeping the neckline interesting.

Expert Styling Tip: If you're between sizes on strapless or sweetheart necklines, size up and have the bodice tailored—it's easier (and cheaper) to take in a bodice than to let it out, and you'll avoid the dreaded spillage situation.

Want to see how these fitted bodice styles drape on your proportions before you commit? Try them on virtually in LookSky—see exactly where the waist hits, how the neckline balances your frame, and whether the length works for your height. No guessing, no returns.

Shop Fitted Bodice Gowns Matched to Your Shape

Best Black Tie Optional Dresses for Hourglass: Structured Fit-and-Flare Gowns

Mermaid gowns for hourglass shapes in mauve, black, and shadow satin

Mermaid silhouettes hug your waist and flare gently from the knees down. They're formal enough for black tie optional, but easier to move in than a full ballgown. Look for structured bodices and skirts with subtle volume.

Skip: Ultra-stiff ball gown skirts that add unnecessary bulk. Mermaid styles with dropped waists that sit at your hips instead of your natural waist. Anything with too much tulle—it reads prom, not polished.

Winsor Lexi Formal Mesh Lace-Up Mermaid Long Dress

• Why it works: The sweetheart neckline and ruched bodice emphasize your defined waist while the mermaid silhouette hugs your curves through the hips before flaring at the knee. The mesh panel adds subtle texture and keeps the fitted bodice breathable.

Hello Molly the Samara Satin Maxi Dress Black

• Why it works: The square neckline creates clean horizontal lines that balance your bust and shoulders, while the body-hugging silhouette follows your curves from chest to knee before gently flaring. The satin fabric has enough structure to smooth without squeezing.

House of CB Violette Shadow Satin Fishtail Gown

• Why it works: The cowl neckline drapes beautifully without gaping or requiring constant adjusting, while the bias-cut satin skims your waist and hips before flaring into a fishtail hem. The shadow gray-brown stands out in a sea of black dresses while still feeling formal.

Expert Styling Tip: Mermaid dresses can be tricky to sit in—test the dress before the event by sitting down, crossing your legs, and moving around.

Want to see how these mermaid silhouettes hug your curves before you buy? See today's trending dresses from influencers who match your shape on LookSky.

Shop Mermaid Gowns Matched to Your Shape

Best Black Tie Optional Dresses for Hourglass Shape: Off-the-Shoulder

Off-shoulder satin maxi dresses in emerald green, black, and chocolate

Off-the-shoulder necklines create a horizontal line that balances your proportions and draws the eye to your collarbones—romantic without feeling too delicate. The key is finding styles with enough structure to stay put without constant adjusting.

Skip: Off-the-shoulder styles that are too loose and slide down all night. Thin straps or sleeves that dig into your upper arms. Stretchy jersey fabrics that show every line and lose their shape after an hour of wear.

House of CB Loretta Emerald Green Satin Off Shoulder Dress

• Why it works: The off-the-shoulder neckline with draped sleeves frames your collarbones while the ruched side detailing cinches at your waist and creates flattering diagonal lines. The emerald green satin feels luxe and jewel-toned—perfect for black tie optional events.

Meshki Imogen Off Shoulder Slinky Maxi Dress - Black

• Why it works: The stretchy slinky fabric molds to your waist and hips without feeling restrictive, creating a sleek elongated line. The off-the-shoulder fold frames your décolletage beautifully.

Meshki Dalia Off Shoulder Satin Maxi Dress - Dark Chocolate

• Why it works: The bias-cut satin creates a lengthening diagonal line while the subtle side ruching defines your waist without adding bulk. Dark chocolate photographs beautifully in low light and stands out from the usual black gowns.

Expert Styling Tip: Off-the-shoulder styles can slip down throughout the night—look for dresses with silicone grip tape inside the neckline or add fashion tape before you leave.

Want to see how these off-the-shoulder styles sit on your frame before committing? Try them on virtually in LookSky—see exactly how the neckline balances your shoulders, where the waist cinches, and whether the length works for your height. No guessing, just confidence.

Shop Off-the-Shoulder Gowns Matched to Your Shape

FAQs: Black Tie Optional Dress Code

Q: Are prints appropriate for black tie optional?
Yes, but choose elevated prints—think watercolor florals, abstract patterns, or subtle metallics. Skip anything too bold or casual (like tropical prints or graphic patterns). The fabric and fit matter more than the print itself.

Q: Can you wear cocktail or tea-length dresses for black tie optional?
Absolutely. Black tie optional is more forgiving than strict black tie. A sophisticated knee-length or tea-length dress in luxe fabric (satin, velvet, silk) works beautifully—especially if you're under 5'6" or the event leans more festive than formal.

Q: What shoes should I wear with a black tie optional dress?
Strappy heels, elegant mules, or embellished sandals all work. Stick with metallic, nude, or black unless your dress is a bold color—then match your shoes to your dress or keep them neutral.

Q: Can I wear a jumpsuit to a black tie optional event?
Yes—as long as it's formal fabric (silk, velvet, crepe) and tailored. Wide-leg jumpsuits with structured bodices work especially well for hourglass shapes. Pair with statement earrings and heels.

Q: How does LookSky's virtual try-on work for formal dresses?
Snap a selfie. Then, select an avatar's body that is resembles yours. You're not just trying anything on. We only show you curated options that already work for you.

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